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chef for five years at Orion Hotel (in Bergen), then was invited to Bryggeloftet. "Bryggeloftet is an institution in this city," he says. It has been operating since 1917, with both lodging and eating place. It has belonged to the Svensen family through all generations and still does, seeing 40 million N kroner per year. Now it is completely booked for the 2006 Christmas season -often with two table settings. "We are best known for our lutefisk, but have many guests the year around," says Haugen, who remembers the Christmas lutefisk of his childhood. The lutefisk season begins the 19th of September and lasts until Easter. This year Haugen has exceptionally fine fish. It came from Røst in Lofoten, and will be served along with yellow peas. "This fish is fresh - not frozen," he emphasizes. For those who prepare their own at home the chef says it is best to bake the lutefisk in a shallow pan in the oven. If it is cooked in water it may well just disappear! "We use an average of 250 kilograms of lutefisk each day (about 500 Ibs. American), 300 on a good day," smiles Haugen about the restaurant that is clearly the "biggest" in Western Norway that serves lutefisk. This is a busy place when everyone wants their food. People have made the pilgrimage all the way from Oslo to eat Haugen's lutefisk. It has even happened that people have come from Japan. And they want to taste everything -lutefisk for first course, sheep head for second course, and the Christmas plate (pork) as main course. And molteberries in whipped cream for dessert! "Some people wrinkle their nose at lutefisk so they have to have a little taste first," says Haugen. "It has happened that they order something else." As we did not have a reserved table we weren't sure we would get a taste of Haugen's lutefisk. But he found a spot for us between two table settings. In a moment he brought out the most delicate fish, firm and flaky, with extra good taste. Then comes the big secret - the stewed yellow peas. And of course mustard, bacon bits, bacon fat plus flatbread. Heavenly! "When Christmas comes I am a bit tired of food," says Haugen. He tastes the Christmas food every day -checking for the perfect taste. He goes home to Torpo for Christmas Eve. Then he will get pork ribs, lamb or lutefisk. "It depends on who is at home," he smiles.
*SN*
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