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"He serves 12 tons of lutefisk!"

"In a Bath of Golden Bacon Fat"
by Line Sandvik (In Hallingdølen, 17.Dec. 2005
translated by Edna Rude)

This article was submitted by Skjold member Marilyn Halvorsen and was translated by long-time Hallingslag member Edna Rude, who lives near Gary, Minnesota.

The original article also included 3 recipes: Lutefisk - Bergen Style (oven baked), Stewed Peas, and Bacon Bits.  The bacon bit recipe mentioned adding pork fat or lamb fat into the bacon fat and bacon bits and then pouring this fat over the lutefisk.  It also mentioned that not everyone wants the bacon fat on their lutefisk.

The article follows as originally printed with no alterations or editing.
**

On the front page of
Hallingdølen for this date we see a photo of Chef Gunnar Egil Haugen, from Torpo in Hallingdal, preparing lutefisk for a large restaurant in Bergen.
A headline tells us,
"He serves 12 tons of lutefisk!" Further, "People - make pilgrimage to eat lutefisk at Bryggeloftet og Stuene restaurant."
They pack into the historic old building, having made reservations a year in advance. One customer has said it this way: "We have become so lazy we have our lutefisk served to us at a restaurant that knows how."
Bergen was long ago (c.a. 1100s) the center for trade in dried fish and salted fish. The fishermen in north Norway brought their catch here in the earliest times. But it was the Swedish King Gustaf who first wrote in a letter about lye-soaked fish in 1540. And the Swedish Archbishop wrote in 1555 about fish lying for two days in strong lye, then one day in fresh water before it was fit to eat, "then when it is cooked and salty butter added, people serve it at the prince's table as a treasured and delicious course."
According to lutefisk friends at Hvaler in Østfold (in southeast Norway), the sailing ship Captain Aalf Cornelius Ingesson learned the lye process from a Portuguese steward in the 1500s. Not until the late 1700s did Norse literature mention lutefisk. At that time it was east Norway where the fish was used.
At any rate, the tradition in this old building in Bergen is an old one. Here the lutefisk season starts in September and lasts until Easter, as Norwegian tradition would have it. The fish, yes, of course it is dried cod directly from Lofoten.
A smiling chef steps out from behind ancient log walls to tell about his workplace and the lutefisk. Gunnar Egil Haugen is from Torpo in Hallingdal and speaks "Bergenese". He has lived in Bergen over ten years, but has not forgotten the Hailing dialect. He prepares about 12 tons of lutefisk per year and has good help in the kitchen. Haugen studied cooking in ÅI, then apprenticed at Pers Hotel in Gol, and spent 10 years at Østenfor Hotel in Nesbyen prior to his move to Bergen.  First, he was

chef for five years at Orion Hotel (in Bergen), then was invited to Bryggeloftet.
"Bryggeloftet is an institution in this city," he says. It has been operating since 1917, with both lodging and eating place. It has belonged to the Svensen family through all generations and still does, seeing 40 million N
kroner per year.
Now it is completely booked for the 2006 Christmas season -often with two table settings.
"We are best known for our lutefisk, but have many guests the year around," says Haugen, who remembers the Christmas lutefisk of his childhood.
The lutefisk season begins the 19th of September and lasts until Easter. This year Haugen has exceptionally fine fish. It came from Røst in Lofoten, and will be served along with yellow peas.
"This fish is fresh - not frozen," he emphasizes. For those who prepare their own at home the chef says it is best to bake the lutefisk in a shallow pan in the oven. If it is cooked in water it may well just disappear!
"We use an average of 250 kilograms of lutefisk each day (about 500 Ibs. American), 300 on a good day," smiles Haugen about the restaurant that is clearly the "biggest" in Western Norway that serves lutefisk.
This is a busy place when everyone wants their food. People have made the pilgrimage all the way from Oslo to eat Haugen's lutefisk. It has even happened that people have come from Japan. And they want to taste everything -lutefisk for first course, sheep head for second course, and the Christmas plate (pork) as main course. And molteberries in whipped cream for dessert!
"Some people wrinkle their nose at lutefisk so they have to have a little taste first," says Haugen. "It has happened that they order something else."
As we did not have a reserved table we weren't sure we would get a taste of Haugen's lutefisk. But he found a spot for us between two table settings. In a moment he brought out the most delicate fish, firm and flaky, with extra good taste. Then comes the big secret - the stewed yellow peas. And of course mustard, bacon bits, bacon fat plus flatbread. Heavenly!
"When Christmas comes I am a bit tired of food," says Haugen. He tastes the Christmas food every day -checking for the perfect taste.
He goes home to Torpo for Christmas Eve. Then he will get pork ribs, lamb or lutefisk.
"It depends on who is at home," he smiles.

*SN*

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